Post Trip Reflection

1.     What were the one or two key “take-aways” from this course for you? 

My first take-away from this course involves the rights of and behavior towards women in the state of Kerala. As an outsider, when you consider the tendency for women in India to remain closer to home and to socialize mostly with women in public settings, you question whether these women do not have the same rights as the Indian man. However when you begin to understand the culture from a closer perspective, you begin to see legal and social promotion of women within the state of Kerala. Legally, the Indian government requires 50% of the elected positions to be filled by women. Socially, women are at the lead of initiatives taken at the community level in slum redevelopment, agriculture, handicraft making, and furthering education for all income levels. When you understand the absence of the Indian man in Kerala society, in the last 30 years, due to work being done in the Middle East, it is clear that Kerala women sit at the head of a the household. The choice to remain close to home becomes a decision that this area deserves improvement. The choice to socialize with women is a cultural factor, that says simply, they compliment each other and is not a forced circumstance. There are however still many factors I do not comprehend, but overall I respect the women of this state for all they have accomplished and I can only imagine what they will accomplish in the next 100 years.

My second take-away is the brick jalli. The term jali stems from a Hindu word meaning mesh or screen and was originally emulated in wood, until Laurie Baker translated this traditional Kerala construction technique into brick. The brick jalli is many things. The brick jalli is functional, allowing more useable space within a structure, as a curved or zigzagged wall requires a smaller width than a traditional straight edge wall. The folding of a brick wall also provides niches for storage or display, as shown in Nuresh’s home. The brick jalli is structural, distributing weight along its surface, and when curved stronger than a comparable linear wall. The jalli is an efficient construction method, requiring less material for the same surface area. Also, this construction performs climatic response, whether it forms an air gap as an exterior edge of a double wall or it maximizes ventilation of an indoor/ outdoor space. The jalli also prevents views in, maintaining a level of privacy while still casting light and allowing breeze within an interior space. Most importantly, the brick jalli is beautiful, both in its construction and the play of light on surfaces within a space.

2.     What aspects of this course did you find most interesting?  Were these different from what you expected before the course? 

I came into this course with a thesis goal to understand family structure and community space so that I could develop a cluster of homes centered about a shared space. I realized quickly that the forming of a community involves much more than the construction of a building or two. I thoroughly enjoyed the information we received on micro-enterprises and the steps taken in community development. The organization of non-profits in Kerala provided a background for me in the way architecture and economy can come together to provide a community resource. I also never realized the support role NGOs can play in state politics.

Coming out of this course, I recognize that the people, especially in a state practicing bottom-up planning efforts, form community. I have re-worked my thesis to provide a multi-generational home, centered within an area of agricultural practice and women’s cooperatives, understanding that my architecture must be a response to what the community has already begun to create.

3.   What aspects of the course did you find most challenging?   Were these different from what you expected before the course?

I found it difficult to keep on top of the writing while travelling. I did not expect this, but with each day so jam-packed with greatness the ability to sit down at night and write was an overwhelming challenge. I did have some issues with comprehension in lectures, but overall the course taught me more than I could ever imagine. It was an incredible learning experience, with so many different facets of the culture, economy, and politics discussed. I couldn’t have asked for more as a jumping off point for my thesis research!

4.   Did the course present a good mix of academic and cultural activities?   If not, what activities should be expanded or shortened in future versions of this course?  

The course did present a good mix of academic and cultural activities. I think that some of the lectures had too much overlap in focus and if the speakers could be more informed on what academic components had already been exposed to us, and then we could have a more efficient discussion of topics. Culturally I appreciated 95% of what we experienced, although I feel as if I have a shallower understanding of the traditional Kerala art practices than I do of the academic topics.

I would be interested in a closer look at the daily happenings of our sponsor organization COSTFORD, including what goes on in the office as well as during construction of projects. We heard many times of the training sessions the organization provides to the communities they build within and I’d love a hands-on day to mix mortar, construct a wall, etcetera. Perhaps there would be 1 or 2 days set aside with different options, so those within the group could chose the one most interesting to them as an individual. Overall the course was very well composed and the professor very flexible about activities, always working to accommodate each student’s needs.

5.  Describe any new or enhanced professional attitudes and/or behaviors that you feel this course was instrumental in developing in you.

I am reminded that architecture is hands-on and involves human beings. I am reminded that practice is more than “paper architecture”. Architecture is dirty, complex, and human. It involves aspects of economy, planning, politics, gardening, engineering, art and culture.

6.   Did the course change your impressions about India in general and Kerala in particular?  If Yes, how? 

Yes. I have previously discussed my changed view of women in Kerala. Beyond this I have developed a deeper respect for the natural environment of Kerala as well as the political environment. India is no longer a country composed of overcrowded cities and extensive poverty. India does have a very organic transportation policy, which incorporates honking as a control method, but it also has deep cultural practices in medicine, food, and dance. It has beautiful natural environments and strong community efforts in self-improvement. Kerala is the only democratically elected Communist state. India practices bottom up planning. India is very flavorful. Basically this course provided me with a million impressions of India, especially in Kerala. India is a complex woman.

7.  Which academic activity/lecture in this course did you like the most?   Why? 

I enjoyed experiencing COSTFORD’s architecture with Sajan and Padma Kumar, two key individuals in continuing and evolving the designs and philosophies of Laurie Baker. Hearing first hand stories and explanations of the constructions is a priceless experience.

8.  Which academic activity/lecture in this course did you like the least?  Why?

There were about 3 lectures that I felt provided little to the course. This may have been only my personal opinion however. I did feel that in the overall experience, the lectures given by women in the community and from COSTFORD were the most fascinating, both due to topic and also articulation of information.

9.  Which cultural/touristy activity in this course did you like the most?  Why?

I really enjoyed the dancing performances, the exploration of food, and the trip to Munnar, especially the elephant ride and the spice farm with the description of medicinal plants. The underlying culture explored through these activities helped supplement the academic lessons we received, linking economy and culture.

10.   Did you dislike any of the cultural/touristy activities in this course?  Why? 

The martial arts performance and the second kati khali demonstration were lacking. Whereas the dancing and the first kati khali performance on New Years Eve seemed to show a sense of pride from the performers, the second cultural experience appeared forced and lacked a sense of dedication to the performance. I was especially disappointed with the martial arts, as much of it lacked a sense of power in the movements. Other than that, much of the tourist activities were great!

11.   Was the class size of 17 too large?  Or too small?   Or just right?    Why? 

Although, I’d heard preliminary concerns about 17 being too large a number for this trip, I tend to disagree, because our group despite some factions existing worked very well as an overall group. There was great dynamic during each of the activities, and although space was at times cramped on the bus, there was good energy throughout the whole trip.

12.   Course participants came from various universities.   Looking back, did this enhance your course experience or detract from it?    Why?  

I think the combination of undergrad and graduate students, as well as individuals from different cities and cultures really impacted the group in a great way. I think the graduate students may have received more benefit from the academic portion of the trip and were more excited by the planning issues brought forth, most of the undergraduate students were able to contribute new ideas to planning based on their backgrounds in finance, journalism, statistics, urban farming, etcetera. Overall the group contributed in many different ways to the overall success of the program.

Micro-enterprise

The innovativeness of Kerala’s people was mind blowing, especially the efforts taken by women’s groups to improve the local economy and fight issues like food scarcity through agricultural practice. In Kerala, land prices are very high and agricultural practices have declined, because more money can be made in other industries and within urban settings. However, much land is left unutilized by rich landowners. Using the government funds available for individuals and groups who propose an enterprise or project, several women came together to farm one of these unused sections of land. By renting the land, this group began to fight food scarcity with the production of bananas, coconuts, tapioca and other small crops. A majority of these crops mature in one years time. On the same day we also visited a male-run farm, which produced a different variety of crops for the surrounding area.

Women's Cooperative 

Men's Cooperative

Near the Laurie Baker Center for Habitat Studies, we visited a women’s cooperative for papermaking. The women recycle paper and cotton cloth into beautiful colored and white paper, to be sold as a handicraft. The building itself, designed by COSTFORD forms a reflection on a body of water at its entry, with a large swooping roof to invite occupants to rest on its front porch. The spaces for papermaking and drying are smaller in comparison to this large open area at the front.

Entry

Mixing machine for processing paper

Beautiful Paper

One non-profit leading the way in poverty alleviation through micro-enterprise is the Kudumbashree Mission. This organization is made up a network of women’s organizations working in cooperation with the local self-government focusing on farming, animal industry, micro-enterprise, and skill training. The activities undertaken by Kudumbashree also include thrift/credit, destitute rehabilitation, assisting children with special needs, gender relations, and urban social infrastructure. By linking with local governance, the mission is given an excellent outreach system. The most fascinating note made in this lecture was in response to a question about success rate among the micro-enterprises. When asked what percentage fail, the speakers appeared confused and just repeated that lessons were given in improving productivity and with financial counseling. Eventually it became clear to us that failure was not an option, when it was an individual or group’s livelihood at stake. It was not a question of is this profitable enough to continue? But rather how do we increase productivity? And in any way possible, they will. This is a clear lesson for many of us foreigners. 

the Hamlet

Short story: There is a doghouse above main entry. The Hamlet has a guard tower.

Longer story: The Hamlet houses the COSTFORD’s Trivandrum office, which carries out the majority of the architectural aspects of the organization. Sajan and Padmakumar work out of this office, as well as about 30 others. The Hamlet was originally Laurie Baker’s home, with additional dwellings on site for his children.Several winding paths ascend up the hill weaving between dwellings, with a final perch near the top sharing an incredible view out into the city/ landscape. 

View from Perch

me in a nook

winding path

General Pillai’s house

A very unique experience during our time in India was a visit to General Pillai’s house. General Pillai holds two high honors. He held a position in the highest ranks of the Indian army and he is married to a most beautiful woman named Jane. Together they told us stories of Laurie Baker, who constructed a mother-in-law “cottage” for them next to Pillai’s family home.

Jane told one of the funniest stories; a short story about an acronym Laurie Baker used: SHMG. In a final plan of a summer home he’d spent countless hours redesigning for them, he included these initials after the title of the project. With each iteration, Jane had kept insisting on “smaller, smaller.” She and Pillai wondered what this acronym meant, and upon being asked Laurie Baker responded, “So help me god”.

The house designed by Laurie Baker on their family plot was one of Laurie’s earliest works and begins to develop his style in its walls. Two unique features were the curved wall of the bathroom in a master bedroom and the placement of the house to avoid cutting down any of the site’s trees. The latter was a request of Pillai’s mother and this practice of not removing any trees from a site continued in Baker’s later work and still today in many of COSTFORD’s constructions. Another interesting tidbit about this house was the placement of brick jallis in such a way that Pillai’s mother could still oversee the goings about in the main house, where she’d raised her children.

Sajan entering Baker Cottage

Entryway from Courtyard

First iteration of Pillai Summer House

Dedication to General and Jane from Baker's wife

Mithraniketan

Mithraniketan. Mithraniketan. Mithraniketan. This word took me a full two weeks and much practice to say. However, this education facility, or place of learning and human interaction, has been in existence for a much longer period of time. Since 1956, Dr. Reghu and the center at Mithraniketan has been providing an education to those in lower castes or in rural areas, who would otherwise have little access to education or livelihood development. Currently there are 320 students at the center, 80% from tribal or lower caste backgrounds. All are from Kerala, largely due to the fact that Kerala speaks a unique language from India’s other states, the language of Malayalam. [Yes this is a palindrome.] There are some visitors from around the world who come to Mithraniketan to take or teach supplementary courses in yoga, coconut tree climbing, and more. Some visitors come to share their own talents, assisting in the building of lavatories or other needed services. When this 65-acre campus began, Laurie Baker resided here and designed the science center and several other buildings including the home the director now resides in. The majority of the facilities are centered about education, with a people’s college and a science and technology program. There are also additional community outreach components, such as an agricultural union for small farmers.

Dr. Reghu and Jerry

Kissing Goats

Learning to Sari

Laurie Baker at Mithraniketan