Karimadom (and Chenakalchoola)

The Karimadom colony is a notified slum in Kerala. It holds a population of 2341 residents, over 9.73 acres, at a density of 240 persons/ acre. A major issue in this slum, common in others, is that it sits 2’ below ground level. The site floods with sewage during monsoon season, breeding disease and causing destruction of the dwellings. A site plan was composed for this area based on early ideas of Laurie Baker. The colony will be reformed in 4 story blocks containing 20 units. The four stories (ground floor plus three upper floors) is the limit given to construction in the cases where water must be carried up. Each floor was given a benefit, whether it contained a larger terrace, or had access to the ground. Also within the colony, pockets of space were left between the housing blocks to provide places for future projects – social, health/ study centers, and anganwadis, or kindergartens. The budget for this project reserved funds for these future constructions. Those presenting on this project reminded us that community redevelopment design went beyond construction. Further components include: health, education, and livelihood. It was also important to those shaping this colony to consider aesthetics, economy, function, and the natural environment.

From the standpoint of the community organizer, housing was just one battle fought in the place she called home for the last 42 years. The first battle was against drugs, which they have largely expelled from their colony. Now that they have achieved the housing they sought, when asked what the next step was, she responded, “education for our children, so they might move out into the rest of the world.”

Karimadom, the most recent architectural project in a slum setting by COSTFORD, was preceded by the Chenakalchoola project. This project, in central Trivandrum, was in close proximity to our hotel and we happened upon it one afternoon on our way to the bookstore. We recognized it by its curved terraces, extending off each unit. This construction was 3 stories, containing 10 units, each with its own outdoor space. Seeing this project on our own was different than our experience at Karimadom, because it had been in place almost 10 years. The community had really taken over the architecture, making it individualistic. Many shops had sprung up at its base as well. 

first glimpse of Chenakalchoola

shops/ life emerging at base of Chenakalchoola

community organizer at Karimadom

still life of Karimadom

Method of laying floor at Karimadom

Padmanabhupuram

 The wooden palace, dating back almost 500 years, is a prime example of traditional Keralite architecture, with lattice windows, sloping roofs with gables and a unique floor finish. The finishing process of the palace floors begins with burnt coconut shell, used as a charcoal to stain the floors. A mixture of banana and egg whites is used to seal the floor, and then the floors are polished by hand with coconut husk. The coloration left behind by this process is a deep mahogany, slightly darker than the three woods used within Padmanabhupuram: teak, ebony, and mahogany. This is truly a wooden palace. The traditional Kerala window is also a wood construction, termed by some lattice windows, the frame extends in a curvature off the side of the building, with slats moving vertically up at a slight angle. The lighting through this “window” or wall system is bright, without creating a heat path into interior spaces. Another unique condition formed by this frame is the ability to view out, without those outside viewing in. Laurie Baker adapts upon this character of the Kerala window in his formed brick jallis. The term jalli stems from a Hindu word jail that translates to mesh or screen. One last interesting tidbit about the Wooden Palace is one of its methods of cooling. Beneath benches on secondary levels of the palace, water tanks are held which perform convection cooling of the main spaces. Often times the cooling was scented and a light perfumed breeze would permeate through the palaces upper levels. Combined with the wooden jallis placed throughout the palace, the rooms maintained a pleasant condition in Kerala’s warm climate. 

Brick Jalli at CDS

The Traditional Kerala Window

Open Room at Padmanabhupuram

Kerala Window from Exterior

India's Southern Tip

city of Kanyakumari in the state of Tamil Nadu

sun rise at the point three waters converge 

Tales of the Man

Laurie Baker was left handed. This is important to his story. India has stipulations towards the process of eating, greeting, and perhaps other life events. These must be done with the right hand. The right hand is clean, the left used primarily for visits to the toilet room. This did not phase the man who continued to use his god-given talent of being a leftie. 

Returning from China and Burma, where he was positioned as a paramedic, he spent 3 months in Bombay, where he met the great teacher, Gandhi. A tall British man in Chinese shoes approaches Gandhi. Interested by the unique sandal, composed of a layered sole with scarfs tying the sandal to one's foot, the teacher asks for a closer look. Mr. Baker, removes his shoes and with his left hand gives them to Gandhi. Impressed by this man, Gandhi requests for him to visit with him and in conversation calls for Baker to come to India and use his building skills to help change the way of life for the poor. 

His role in the architecture of Trivandrum is not immediate, but after some time Laurie Baker comes to Kerala, with his wife Elizabeth, a Keralite, and quickly develops a name for himself, which is today carried on by the organization COSTFORD, as well as numerous other non-profits which have been inspired by his measures. 

COSTFORD, Center of Science and Technology for Rural Development, was began in 1985 by a Former Chief Minister Shri C Acutha Menon, the Laurie Baker, Dr. K N Raj, and TR Chadra Dutt. This non-profit was not purely architecturally based, but had a broad range of activities from advocacy work, to research and development to dissemination of information, especially in empowering poor communities. 

Recently, in 2010, the Laurie Baker Center for Habitat Studies was set up on a piece of land chosen by Baker himself, who passed away in 2002. This complex sitting on 3.5 acres, once a granite quarry, consists of several workshop spaces, a residence, dormitory and dining block. The area of land has been reforested since its days as a quarry and 2.5 of the acres of site are green. This land was purchased by the government in dedication to Laurie Baker. This center has become one of my favorite places, with winding stairs, walks through wood, various structures making up lecture space, dining, even a meditation space. 

The Legacy of Laurie Baker

Day 2 - Introduction to Laurie Baker's Philosophy and Design Principles

Two lectures, both on site at the Laurie Baker Center for Habitat Studies, portrayed Baker and associates design philosophy as well as  the overall status of the state of Kerala, of which Trivandrum is the capitol city.  

Welcome to the Laurie Baker Center 

lecture hall at the LBC

perforated brick allows natural light to permeate stairs at the LBC

The Center for Developmental Studies by Laurie Baker

niche

Ascending to main library block

Inner courtyard - water feature at base of library block

This complex was constructed without floor plans, based on sand drawings done on site by Laurie Baker and sketches demonstrating the general shape of each building. Specifications would be made by Baker as to how thick a wall was to be, then it would be built. 

Welcome to Trivandrum!

Day 1 - Trivandrum - no sleep

Taxis bring us to our hotel, honking as we maneuver around the slow pokes, pushing them to the right, as we pass quickly on the left, vroom. A quick shower, then breakfast explorations accompanied by mango juice and milky coffee. 

The plan of the day: the Thiruvanthapuram Zoo. Those who've read Life of Pi, will be interested to know that the author based the strange creatures of the floating island on those he experienced at this zoo! My excitement was contagious, drawing most of our group to accompany me. The animals, not all rare, were enclosed in a lush park with great elevation changes as we progressed through. Those who observed seemed to feel we were as exotic as the animals we came to see. 

 

dragon tongue - ornate stone near Napier Art Museum

Detailed Gutter

Exotic Choker Plant

Stairs of Zoo

Sloth Bears - burrowing for coolness

Bamboo Carvings